龚晓雯 奢侈品珠宝管理 硕预

 I have studied and worked in the jewelry industry for 12 years. During these years, I knew the most famous ruby ‘Black Prince's Ruby’ on the crown of the British queen was found to be a spinel in 1660. ‘The Ocean Star’ of <Titanic> in the movie witnessed a beautiful love story, but people were debating whether it is sapphire or tanzanite. Corundum and its similar gemstones have become a heated market in China in recent years. So how do people distinguish their similarities and differences? What do you think of their value? Why people want to buy them? These questions intrigued me to start my research. I have learned that people paid more attention on the sense of ritual and the symbolic significance of corundum. But actually, the consumers are very traditional.

The global economy encountered a period of suspension in 2013. The market economy has been severely hit by the coronavirus in 2020. Although the second-hand luxury market still has trading volume, the meaning behind this trading volume may not be the recovery of the economy, but perhaps the omen of the economic bust. Jadeite has become a pricy commodity, but no one buys it. I did market research and interviewed the consumers and practitioner to know: what do they think of the current jadeite market? What do they think of the design and value of these products? The pessimism of practitioners and the enthusiasm of consumers resulted in contradiction. This is an obvious difference between the two parties on the value cognition of the jadeite.

我学习和从事珠宝行业12年。在这段时间中，我知道了英国女王的皇冠上最出名的红宝石“black prince’s ruby”在1660年发现是个尖晶石。电影中《铁坦尼克号》的“海洋之星”见证了一个美好的爱情故事。但是人们为了它是蓝宝石还是坦桑石，争论不休。刚玉和他的相似宝石，成为中国这几年市场大热。那么人们怎么分辨他们的相似之处和不同之处？怎么看待他们的价值？人们为什么购买他们？这些问题让我产生了兴趣并展开了调研。通过我的调研，我了解到了人们关注刚玉更多的是其仪式感和象征意义。但其实消费者们仍然很传统。

2013年全球经济碰到了平缓期。2020年冠状病毒让市场经济受到了严重的打击。虽然二手奢侈品市场还是有成交量，但是这个成交量背后的含义不是经济的复苏，反而或许是经济奔溃的预兆。翡翠成为了高价商品，但却进入了无人购买的尴尬状态。我做了市场调查、消费者和从业者的访问，想去了解：他们怎么看待现在的翡翠市场？怎么看待产品的设计和价值？从业者的悲观和消费者的热情产生了矛盾。这是双方对翡翠价值认知上的明显区别。