高樱 设计管理 硕士预科

曾经红极一时的服装品牌Bape，如今默默无闻。而主理人Nigo而后创立的Human Made如今平稳发展。这个现象引起了我好奇。

我调研了Bape和Human Made这两个品牌的基本信息，策略和消费者群体、以及主理人的个人背景。并将两个品牌的发展历史和运营模式进行了对比。在此过程中我也采访了一位经过对一些设计师兼品牌主里人，他表示也曾面领过相似的问题。在这一系列的研究后，我发现很多设计师有一个错误的认知：把在设计上的成功和商业上的成功划等号，但我认为在品牌运营中不同的工作角色应该被区分。

Human Made的成功，也让我注意到始祖鸟和户外运动，以及们所象征的文化和流行趋势正在国内兴起。因此我接着调研了“山系”这一时尚风格。山系风格不光体现在服装设计上，也会通过品牌的视觉符号、颜色、广告等平面设计来体现。后疫情时代人们对自由和自然的向往也成为了这一文化和类似品牌进一步发展的契机。而山系时尚产品的高价定位也反映了其受众群的消费能力，和他们的消费习惯。根据调研我也对这一类品牌发展提出了一些列建议：比如通过拓展设计风格吸引更多消费群体；针对女性群体设计更多有助于户外个人安全保护的功能；研发或使用一些环保面料以此加深品牌背后的文化意义。

GAO Ying

Design Management

The once immensely popular clothing brand Bape is now obscure, while Human Made, founded by the same founder Nigo, is steadily growing. This phenomenon intrigued me.

I researched the basic information, strategies, and consumer demographics of both Bape and Human Made, as well as the personal background of their founders. I compared the development history and operational models of the two brands. During this process, I interviewed a designer who is also a brand owner and faced similar questions. From this series of research, I found that many designers mistakenly equate design success with business success, but I believe different roles in brand operation should be distinguished.

The success of Human Made also drew my attention to the rise of outdoor culture and trends symbolized by brands like The North Face. Therefore, I continued my research into the "mountain style" fashion trend. This style is not only reflected in clothing design but also through the brand's visual symbols, colors, and advertising. The post-pandemic era has seen a desire for freedom and nature, providing further opportunities for the development of this culture and similar brands. The high pricing of mountain-style fashion products reflects the purchasing power and habits of its audience. Based on my research, I have also made some recommendations for the development of such brands: for example, expanding design styles to attract more consumer groups; designing more outdoor safety features for female consumers; and researching or using environmentally friendly fabrics to deepen the cultural significance behind the brand.