倪晨 珠宝与金属(MA) - 英国皇家艺术学院

2023.06.28

首饰与身体直接接触,是人们表达情感和个性的媒介。它具有无限的创作可能性。我认为以开放的心态探索首饰的各种可能性非常重要,我在创作过程中广泛涉猎,并尝试了多种多样的概念艺术化表达方式,包括视频作品和艺术装置。

《庇佑卵子》描述了在科技高度发达、生育率极低的社会中女性的处境。该系列创作来反映女性不可避免地受到生殖剥削的社会现象。该系列有5件作品,包括:贞操带、卵子提取器、性激素检测项圈、装饰性孕肚与体外胚胎培养装置。

《铃鼓》是一系列能随着人体的运动而发出声音的首饰。首饰和音乐有相似之处,都可以提高人们的精神满足感和舒适感。受到中国传统配饰步摇和禁步的启发,当人佩戴它们行走时,配饰上的金玉相互碰撞会发出令人愉悦的声音。于是我想通过人们不同的行为来探索人与首饰对象之间的关系,这可能会给观众带来更有趣的穿着体验和一种独特的心理感受。

《微塑料之旅》包括《珊瑚骨》和《笼》两个不同分支,其核心思想是唤起人们对微塑料污染的关注以及对快时尚产业可持续转型的迫切希望。微塑料污染是一个日益突出的问题,具有对环境和人类健康的潜在威胁。

在《可生物降解的类塑材料》开发了一种可持续的可生物降解材料,以减少快时尚行业对塑料的滥用。我受到了清明团(由糯米粉、大米和艾草制成的点心)的启发,最终制成了具有足够稳定性的可代替快时尚产业中部分塑料使用的可生物降解材料。

另外我的《圆》探索了珠宝的基本元素——“圆”的可能性,并将它衍变出不同的佩戴方式。我通过重复、叠加、排列或组合多个基本元素,试图打破常规的珠宝形式,。

Jewellery can contact directly with the human body, which can become a medium for people to express their emotions and personality so that it has unlimited creative possibilities.  It’s very important to keep an open mind to explore the diverse possibilities of jewellery, my work spans a wide range, and I also tried all the suitable artistic expressions for different concepts, including video works and installations.

<Blessed Ovum> describes women’s situation in a society with highly developed technology and extremely low fertility. Inspired by the novel The Handmaid's Tale, which talks about the authority using political power to control the country's fertility rate. As a result, I designed Blessed Ovum as an attempt to reflect that women are unavoidably subjected to reproductive exploitation. There are 5 pieces in this series, including a chastity belt, an ovum extractor, a sex detection collar, a decorative pregnancy belly, and an in vitro cultivation installation.

<Handbells> is a series of jewellery which can produce sounds with the movement of the human body. Jewellery and music have similarities, they both raise people’s spiritual satisfaction and comfort. Inspired by traditional Chinese accessories Bu Yao and Jin Bu, which can produce sounds when pendants on them collide with each other, I would like to explore the relationship between the human and jewellery object through different human behaviours. It may cause a more amusing wear experience and a sort of psychological comfort to the audience.

<The Journey of Microplastics> includes two different branches, The Coral Bone and Cage, their core idea is to draw people's attention to microplastic pollution and the urgent hope for a sustainable transformation of the fashion industry. Microplastic pollution is a rising issue that threatens the environment and human health.

<In Plastic-like Biodegradable Material>, I developed a sustainable and biodegradable material to lessen the abuse of plastic in the fast fashion industry. Inspired by Qingming Tuan (dim sum made from sticky rice flour, rice, and wormwood), I tested the properties of different starches and recipes. Finally, I made a biodegradable material with sufficient stability which can replace some plastic used in the fast fashion industry.

<In the project Circle>, I explored the possibility of the basic element of jewellery- ‘circle’ and changed it into different wearabilities. I tried to break the conventional forms of jewellery, though repeating, overlaying, arranging, or combining multiple basic elements together.

PORTFOLIO

学生作品照片

文件:Nichen 01 Circle 模特图:

戒指、手镯、胸针

银、紫铜

尺寸自由

Circle

Ring, Bracelet and Brooch

Silver, Copper

Free size

文件:Nichen 02 Circle 静物图:

戒指、手镯、胸针

银、紫铜

尺寸自由

Circle

Ring, Bracelet and Brooch

Silver, Copper

Free size

文件:Nichen 03 Handbells模特图:

铃鼓 

项链

树脂、弹力线、黄铜、玻璃珠、钢珠、小米,喷漆

多种尺寸

Handbell 

Bracelets, necklaces and rings

Resin, elastic thread, brass, glass beads, millet, spray paint

Variety sizes

文件:Nichen 04 Handbells静物图

铃鼓 

项链

树脂、弹力线、黄铜、玻璃珠、钢珠、小米,喷漆

多种尺寸

Handbell 

Bracelets, necklaces and rings

Resin, elastic thread, brass, glass beads, millet, spray paint

Variety sizes

文件:Nichen 05 The Coral Bone静物图

珊瑚骨

胸针

珊瑚、欧根纱、银、钢别针、珠子

多种尺寸

The Coral Bone

Brooches

Coral, organza, silver, steel pin, beads

Variety sizes

文件:Nichen 03 Cage I模特图

笼子 I

项链

黄铜

20*30*5厘米

Cage I

Necklace

Brass

20*30*5cm

文件:Nichen 03 Cage II模特图

笼子 II

胸针

黄铜、钢针

4*3.5*3厘米

Cage II

Brooch

Brass, steel pin

4*3.5*3cm

文件:Nichen 08 Cage 静物图

笼子

胸针、项链

黄铜、钢针

多种尺寸

Cage 

Brooch and necklace

Brass, steel pin

Variety sizes

文件:Nichen 09 Blessed Ovum III静物图:

庇佑卵子

体外培养装置

硅胶线、橡胶管、玻璃试管、玻璃瓶

1.5*1.5*1.8米

Blessed Ovum 

In vitro cultivation installation

Silicone wires, rubber pipes, glass tube, glass bottle

1.5*1.5*1.8 m

文件:Nichen 10 Blessed Ovum II模特图:

庇佑卵子

项链

树脂、人造革、白铜、橡胶管、亚克力

15*15*2厘米

Blessed Ovum 

Necklace

Resin, artificial leather, cupronickel, rubber pipes, acrylic

15*15*2cm

文件:Nichen 11 Blessed Ovum I模特图:

庇佑卵子

项链

树脂、人造革、白铜、橡胶管、亚克力

15*15*2厘米

Blessed Ovum 

Necklace

Resin, artificial leather, cupronickel, rubber pipes, acrylic

15*15*2cm

文件:Nichen 12 Blessed Ovum I效果图:

庇佑卵子

项链(左上)

人造革、亚克力、树脂、不锈钢、白铜

15*15*2厘米

Blessed Ovum 

Necklace , accessory and ovum Extractor

Artificial leather, arcylic, resin, steel, cupronickel

15*15*2cm

文件:Nichen 13 Blessed Ovum II效果图:

庇佑卵子

卵子提取器

白铜,不锈钢,亚克力,树脂

15*6*1.2厘米

Blessed Ovum 

Ovum Extractor

Cupronickel, steel, acrylic, resin

15*6*1.2cm

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