名家书荐 Xiaochen Liu | 胸针背后的各种可能

欣赏一枚好的胸针

除了品玩它的

形态、材质、色彩、手感之外

还有一个引人入胜的细节：

背针的设计与执行

就内涵和美学而言

背针是胸针的重要组成部分

它不仅具有功能性

更是一种交流方式

「名家书荐」第七期，我们邀请到了

来自中国的首饰艺术家 Xiaochen Liu

为大家推荐一本

关于胸针背针设计的百科全书

艺术家 / Artist

 Xiaochen LIU 

中国当代首饰艺术家刘晓辰，硕士毕业于上海大学美术学院首饰设计专业。她的创作注重个人记忆、生活经历与情感表达，主要研究方向为首饰与艺术治疗。作品曾多次在国内外参展，如21克——2018杭州当代国际首饰与金属艺术三年展，JOYA 2018巴塞罗那艺术首饰与物品展览等。现任AIVA国际视觉艺术教育导师。

Xiaochen Liu is a Chinese contemporary jewellery artist who holds a master's degree in jewelry design from Shanghai Academy of Fine Arts. Her creation comes from personal memory, life experiences and emotional expressions, mainly focusing on jewelry and art therapy.  Her works were shown in exhibitions home and abroad, such as 21 grams - Hangzhou International Contemporary Jewelry and Metal Arts Triennials, JOYA Barcelona Jewellery & Objeects.  She currently teaches at AIVA.

艺术家推荐书籍

Recommended Book

To The Point

《见端知末》

Author: Daniela Malev

Hardcover: 266 pages

X：《To The Point》是一本专门讲解艺术首饰中胸针背针的各种存在形式的书。在AIVA的金工课程中，我们会统一教学最基本、最常用的单针和双针的背针形式，而在实际的创作中，通常需要作者在满足这些基本结构要求的情况下根据自己的胸针特性去设计自己背针。这本书收集了大量艺术家的胸针作品作为实例，详细的为我们归纳、罗列出了背针的各种可能性。

X: To The Point is a book that has gathered and illustrated various forms of brooch pin back.  In the silversmith short course in AIVA, we introduce the most common and basic forms of pin back to our students. However, during the process of actual creation, it is often that the creator has to design or invent the form of the pin back according to the characteristics of one’s own brooch. This book has shown the audience numerous examples from the works by various artists. The possibilities of pin backs are listed and categorized in this book.

X：现在能买到的应该是图上这款改版后的样子。从封面上就能看到不同的蓝色线框图形和色块，每一个图形和色块其实都分别代表了从形式和内容定义上被区分出来的不同背针类型。给大家看一下目录，按照封面的颜色标记出了每一种类型的名称，方便读者快速的翻页查找。在每一个章节的扉页上也会对该类别的背针进行详细的定义，帮助大家理解这个分类的具体指向和范畴。

X: This photo shows the new edition of this book. On the cover the categories of pin backs are shown with square-shaped linear graphs.  If you look at the table of content, you will find that categories of pin backs are sorted by color, making it easy for readers to search through the content. In the introduction of each chapter the editor defined the category with great details, helping readers to understand the scope and purpose of the pin backs in this category.   

X：每一种类型的背针介绍里都列举了大量首饰艺术家的胸针作品作为实例进行展示，读者可以在这本书中看到一些平时熟悉的胸针作品的背面或者是背针的细节图和手绘的背针结构解析图等。如果你有一定的金工基础，可以从这些介绍中了解到这些背针应该如何被制作出来，也能从这些实例中看到每一位艺术家是怎样来设计他们的背针，让背针与胸针融合为一个整体的。此外，在每一种背针介绍的最后都会集中展示胸针作者本人对自己作品的介绍。

X: In each category there are vast number of examples by many artists.  Readers might be able to see some familiar master pieces and their back structure.  Some of the example shown come with diagrams that one can easily see the logic of design.  If you have background in silversmithing, it won’t be difficult to see how those pin backs were actually made.  You will also see how artists arrange the pin backs so a pin back really becomes an integrated part of the brooch. At the end of each chapter there will be a section where the artists’ introductions of the shown pieces are listed.

X：后面还有关于系列胸针作品的介绍以及胸针背针制作的基础技术指导，以文字加手绘图的方法帮助读者普及一些在胸针背针制作中需要了解的通用基础技术问题。这里就不详细拍摄出来了，大家想了解的话可以购买观看，个人觉得还是非常值得的。希望这个推荐对大家有帮助。

X: In the end there are also basic instructions for making pin backs. Text and hand-drawn graphs explain difficulties that the reader might encounter during the process of making.  Please check out the book if you want to know more. I personally think it is a good deal and I hope this recommendation will help all of you who are learning silversmithing.

AIVA Gallery与Uclc当代首饰订阅号携手，为大家开启To The Point 购买通道。本书代购价格为CNY 356元，运费另计（国际+国内运费约30元，需等待集中发货）。如有需要的小伙伴，可联系本公众号后台。

原来胸针的背面

  也藏着大学问！

对于当代首饰爱好者来说

这绝对是本不容错过的背针宝典

 感兴趣的小伙伴速速去一探究竟吧~

Xiaochen的作品

也常常以胸针作为载体

她基于“艺术疗法”

以艺术为媒介，

表达内心的思绪、感受和经验

让我们一起来感受一下

她的作品在向我们诉说什么吧

作品介绍 / Works

< Lonely Day 一个人的日子>

paper, resin, plastic, paillette, 

sterling silver, copper, nylon thread

作为一名致力于艺术治疗的首饰艺术家，Xiaochen通过她的系列作品《一个人的日子》试图直面童年的创伤。作为中国特别的一代独生子女，童年的孤寂是一个显而易见的现象。在Xiaochen的成长过程中，漫画书扮演了朋友的角色，起到了陪伴作用。它帮助她消磨时光，同时也渗入她的灵魂，铸成她的血肉，成就了现在的Xiaochen —— 一个对生活充满了漫画式幻想的理想主义者。

As a jewellery artist devoting to Art Therapy, Xiaochen tried to confront her wound from childhood by her series of work "Lonely Day". As the birth-control generation, loneliness had a dominant presence in her childhood.  Comic books played a significant role in Xiaochen's growth.  It has consumed her time and penetrated into her soul, transformed to become her body and made her who she is today – an idealist full of comic fantasies about real life.

Xiaochen 把儿时翻阅的漫画书纸张作为创作的材料来塑造作品的主体外型，它以首饰的形式附庸于身体之上，成为连接人体的一个部分。Xiaochen把它看作是自己内心世界的一种外露，这不仅需要时间，还需要勇气。

In this series of work, Xiaochen used pages from childhood comic books as the main material to create the main body.  When it wears on the chest as a piece of jewellery, it seems to become a part of her body and a vessel to expose the internal self. It takes time and courage to heal.

Other Works

Stessed Out

sterling silver

 

 

Craving Toad

finger wear experimentation

sterling silver, citrine

 

 

Spooky Owl

finger wear experimentation

sterling silver, copper, garnet

创作的过程本身也是一种疗愈

艺术家通过艺术治疗的方式

结合心理学与哲学理论自我剖析

展开自我治疗的艺术实践

踏上了一场深入内心世界的旅程

往期图书推荐：

名家书荐 Elena Martinelli | 

领略首饰背后的工艺魅力

名家书荐 Ziyi Yang | 

从审美意识探究东方美学之魂

名家书荐 Bin Dixon-Ward | 

运用之妙，存乎一心

下一期

我们会为大家

带来另一位艺术家和爱书的故事

敬请期待

Stay tuned

for more jewellery artists &

their book recommendation

愿好书觅到更多知音