首页 > 埃瓦资讯 > 只有干货 >

名家书荐 Elena Martinelli | 领略首饰背后的工艺魅力

● 2020.02.09

「名家书荐」第六期，我们邀请到了

来自意大利的首饰艺术家 Elena Martinelli

来给大家推荐一位 “重量级选手”

这本书重达3公斤

被誉为首饰界的“圣经”

可能是有史以来

最全面的首饰制作和金属加工指南

对工艺感兴趣的小伙伴们可千万不要错过啦

艺术家 / Artist

Elena Martinelli

Elena Martinelli 是来自意大利的首饰艺术家，她在首饰制作和设计上有超过十五年的经验，拥有个人首饰品牌ELENA MARTINELLI Unique Jewellery。Elena 本科毕业于热那亚大学工业设计专业，之后转向金属工艺与宝石鉴定专业学习，同时从事商业与艺术首饰的创作。她曾在阿姆斯特丹、上海、意大利、以色列等多个国家和地区举办个人展览并获奖，她也曾与多个国际公司合作，参与设计和制作众多品牌的系列产品。

Elena Martinelli is a contemporary jewelry artist from Italy. She has more than fifteen years of experience in jewelry making and design, and owns personal jewelry brand ELENA MARTINELLI Unique Jewellery. Elena graduated with a bachelor's degree in industrial design from the University of Genoa, then she turned to metalsmith and gem identification. At the same time, she engaged in creating commercial and art jewelry. She has held individual exhibitions and won awards in many countries and regions such as Amsterdam, Shanghai, Italy, and Israel. She has also collaborated with many international companies to participate in the design and production of many branded products.

艺术家推荐书籍

Recommended Book

Jewelry: Concepts and Technology

《首饰：概念与工艺》

Author: Oppi Untracht

Hardcover: 840 pages

E：首饰工作室的书库里总是有很多很棒的书籍，但我引用金匠Oppi Untracht的书远远超过其他任何作者。

Oppi是纽约的一位金工大师，他写了一本可能是有史以来最好的全方位首饰制作和金属加工指南——《首饰：概念与工艺》。这本书是世界各地以及任何水平的珠宝设计师，工匠和制造商的全能圣经和必备品！对于那些未从事该领域但希望了解首饰制作背后过程的人来说，它也是一个独特的参考资源。

E: There are always a lot of great books in a jewellery studio library but I refer back to the books of metalsmith Oppi Untracht far more than those of any other author.

Oppi was a New York master metalsmith, who wrote what is probably the best all-around jewelry making and metalsmithing guide ever: Jewelry: Concepts and Technology. This book is de?nitely a must and all-around bible for jewelry designers, craftsmen, and manufacturers the world over and on all levels of ability. It is also a unique reference source for those not directly active in the ?eld but who wish to gain an understanding of what lies behind the jewellery-making process.

E：书中详细介绍了有关贵金属以及宝石的设计和制作各个方面的信息，并探索了首饰制作的历史、工艺、工具、技巧和诀窍，全面介绍了所有传统和创新的当代技术。书中的插图展示了特定工艺的工具和过程，30张分步照片演示则展示了珠宝大师从原材料到成品的制作过程。

E: This book is full of detailed information on every aspect of the design and crafting of precious metals and gemstones, as well as a fascinating exploration of jewelry-making throughout history, techniques, tools, tips and tricks. All traditional as well as innovative contemporary techniques are thoroughly described. Illustrations in the book show tools and processes used to carry out particular techniques and 30 step-by-step photo demonstrations show master jewellers working from raw material to finished jewels.

E：这900多张照片展示了各种复杂程度的作品，以及古往今来的首饰家在作品中所融合的各种不可思议的概念。具有历史意义的首饰，民族首饰，以及来自26个国家近300名首饰家的当代作品，被归类在特定工艺下。这种布局体现了当今富有创造力的首饰家与其同行之间相互的纽带关系：以历史风格为导向的，和默默无闻的，以传统为主导的民族首饰家。

E: The more than 900 photographs illustrate work of all degrees of complexity and show the incredible range of concepts which jewellers in all times incorporate in their work. Historic and ethnic jewellery, as well as contemporary work done by approximately 300 jewellers from twenty-six countries, are grouped under particular technical processes. This arrangement dramatically illustrates the mutual bonds between today's creative jewellers and their colleagues: historic style-oriented, and anonymous, tradition-dominated ethnic jewellers.

E：如果你是珠宝商、金属工匠或珠宝设计师，你不该没有它……它一定会是你工作室里折角最多的书。

E: If you are a jeweller, a metalsmith or jewelry designer you shouldn't be without it... It will be certainly the most dog-eared book in your studio.

除了上面这本珠宝圣经

Elena还向我们推荐了Oppi其他几本值得一读的好书

例如《金属上的珐琅》和他的代表作《印度传统珠宝》

有兴趣的小伙伴可以去拜读一下哦~

Selected Bibliography:

- Enameling on Metal (1957)

- Metal Techniques for Craftsmen (1968)

- Jewelry Concepts and Technology (1982)

- Saara Hopea-Untracht. Life and Work (1988)

- Traditional Jewelry of India (1997)

- Icons in Gold: Jewelry of India from the Collection of the Musee Barbier-Mueller (co-author 2006)

Elena 本人制作的首饰

工艺也十分细致

需要大量的耐心

每一件作品都独一无二

倾注了她对工艺的无限热爱

让我们一起来欣赏一下吧

作品介绍 / Works

Elena 喜欢从大自然和人们的日常生活中捕捉灵感。她享受创造的过程，通过混合不同的金属，从而形成不同的结构质地，展现出独特的色彩效果。在作品中，她喜欢使用传统工艺，体验不同的材料和她发现的物品。

Elena likes to capture inspiration from nature and daily routine of people. She enjoys the process of creation. By mixing different metals, various structures and textures are formed, showing special color effects. In her works she like to use many traditional techniques as well as experience with different materials and found objects.

Wireframe

brass

Heartbreaking

silver, copper, enamel

Textures

silver, gold, copper, brass, patina

在Elena的设计中，她对于“珠子”这个元素格外偏爱：全部由手工制作的珠子组成的项链、用珠子点缀的戒指、零星散落的珠子艺术品…… 这源自于意大利撒丁人古老的造粒工艺，Elena通过数年研究和构思，重新诠释了传统和古代技术，创造出了具有触感和生命力的首饰。

In Elena's design, she has a particular preference for the element of "beads"- necklaces made entirely of handmade beads, rings embellished with beads, scattered beads of artwork... This is derived from the ancient granulation technique in Italy. Through years of research and design, Elena reinterpreted traditional and ancient techniques to create jewels with vitality and a tactile feeling.

Bell

brass, pearl

Sottobosco

wood, sterling silver oxidized

Growing precious

mixed metals with tiny river pearls

Elena认为，对时间的感知在她的工作中十分重要。时间是一种珍贵的东西，它甚至比宝石本身更珍贵。她一直认为她的首饰是用金属、工艺还有时间制成的。她的许多作品都需要大量时间才能实现，而且要强迫性地重复相同的步骤。

Elena believes that the perception of time is very important in her works. Time is precious and it is even more precious than the gem itself. She always believes that her jewelry is made of metal, technology and time. Many of her works took a lot of time to realize and are forced to repeat the same steps.

Work in process

“

I also really like to create organic shapes that remind us of those organisms that live under the sea, or in undergrowth, such as corals or mushrooms, which are continuously growing.

我也很喜欢创造有机形态，这能让人联想到那些生活在海底或树丛中的生物，比如珊瑚和蘑菇，它们总是生生不息。

”

—— Elena Martinelli

Growing Undersea

brass, pearl